Edmonton airport

Sunday, June 23, 2019

My Favourite Cities – Victoria, British Columbia


What is it that makes a city become a home? Living there for a period of time, of course, and loving things about it. I’ve discovered that more than one city feels like home to me, even if I don’t live there anymore.


I currently live in Saskatoon, but I’ve been travelling to Victoria since the 1970’s. Partly because I lived there for several months in the mid 70’s and because I loved so many things about it, that city is like a second home. This June I returned after not having been there for about ten years. There were changes, of course, but all my favourite things still exist.


Victoria is a city on water and rock with a moderate climate – often flowers are blooming in February. These are pluses. When I lived there, I didn’t enjoy the winter grey skies even if there was no snow (or rarely). Despite the winter cold of Saskatoon, I do like the amount of sun. Both Saskatoon and Victoria have good walks, and one can live in a neighborhood that doesn’t require owning a vehicle.


For me the Inner Harbour is the heart of Victoria, from where I can easily get to many of my favourite places. There you can look at people, boats, performers, and the Empire Hotel. It’s a short walk to the Museum and the Imax Theatre, Beacon Hill Park (big and varied, restful), James Bay (one of my favourite neighbourhoods), Fisherman’s Wharf, and downtown.


Fisherman’s Wharf is worth seeing for the creative houseboats as well as a few eateries. The day I visited this June, they were celebrating World Ocean Day with events for kids – displays, First Nations performance and music, activities, and information.


My favourite neighbourhoods are James Bay, where I once lived, and Fernwood, where my brother and his partner now live. Both neighbourhoods have a certain ‘funkiness’ as one of my friends names it.


We came to James Bay by accident. Had left Saskatchewan with an old truck because we wanted a new start. Drove to Saltspring Island where we had some connections and then I went into Victoria to stay with a new friend and to search for a place to live.  Everything I looked at was either too expensive, horribly dilapidated or too far away (we wanted to be close to the middle of the city. So my friend suggested putting an ad in the paper, saying young couple with child looking for a place to live. I can’t remember what other details I included, but it resulted in a phone call from a man who owned a small apartment building in James Bay. At the time, so-called hippies and counterculture people lived there and it felt very welcoming. There was a community school, which meant that classes and programs were offered after school for all ages and events such as a visit by Santa Claus were hosted. We often walked to the beach to collect treasures, could walk to the local laundromat, café, and free store (where people left items for exchange). A part of my heart still lives in James Bay.




Fernwood in the present day has a lot of artists and when I visited this year, I was able to take part in their art walk, seeing all sorts of art as well as wonderful yards. There’s a local theater, The Belfrey (a converted church), restaurants, a local market, and other shops. The neighbourhood is close to the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria, as well as other attractions.


I also like Oak Bay, with its village street atmosphere – bookstore, restaurants, small shops. There’s the wonderful Willow Beach with a tearoom run by Kiwanis volunteers. Great views into the bay and a lovely walking path.


Whenever I return to Victoria, I must visit Munro’s Books, established in 1963 by Alice Munro’s husband at the time. I love that they keep not just the latest books by an author, but past published books. They have a great selection of many genres and a good sales table. Staff are friendly and helpful.

Murchie’s Tea and Coffee is close to the bookstore. I like to stop there for a snack or a meal – good food and quick service. It may look busy when you arrive, but the line moves speedily and there’s usually a place to sit by the time you get your food. The souvenir shop is great too, and this year I discovered that you can order products online!


I also love to wander the Government House grounds, which are free. The rose garden is a delight for sight and nose! This year, for the first time, I had lunch at the tearoom, which was delicious – salad and quiche, with an Italian soda.


I spent just a week this time and walked a lot – second-hand bookstores, Chinatown (Fan Tan Alley is fun), past Craigdarroch Castle (which I’ve toured in the past), and lots of lovely scenery. I could live there again, if it wasn’t so expensive! I could get to know even more neighbourhoods.


And if you love Victoria, too, try to get hold of the book Hometown: Out and About in Victoria’s Neighbourhoods by Anny Scoones, with wonderful watercolour illustrations by Robert Amos. (Available from Munro’s Books of course.)


No comments:

Post a Comment